Rome! I’ve been postponing this trip for a while, fearing your lack of accessibility and overwhelming crowds. I was right to be worried. Your ancient cobblestones, lack of lowered curbs, illegal parkers, and millions of visitors didn’t make it easy on this wheelchair girl. Still, your beauty, fascinating history, delicious food, and welcoming people were well worth the effort.
Will I go back? Probably not, unless I’ll be able to do it walking.
But we spent a fantastic week in Rome and learned a little about how to do it in a wheelchair.
Getting there
We flew into Fiumicino (Leonardo da Vinci) Airport. The assistance team was very efficient in helping me deplane via the aisle chair and escorting us to the baggage claim area. The airport is extensive, with lots of walking/rolling – book assistance if you have difficulty walking long distances or waiting in lines!
The airport is 32km from the center of Rome. The best and cheapest way to reach Rome if you are a wheelchair user is by Leonardo Express Train ; 35 min, 14€, 5 am-10:30 pm. The train is platform-level, but there’s quite a wide gap between the coach and the platform. You can book assistance 12 hours before departure at Sala Blu, and they’ll help you on/off the train. The Leonardo Express stops at Termini station, and you can continue by bus/metro to your hotel/destination.
If you arrive during night hours, arrange for a wheelchair-accessible transit/taxi if you cannot transfer. It’s expensive, but it’s the only option. Regular taxis cost 48€+ night rate; we arrived at night and paid 60€ for an Uber. As far as I know, the buses to/from the airport aren’t wheelchair-accessible.
Platform-level, but a wide gap
Assistance through Sala Blu
Public Transportation
We found buses to be the best way to move around Rome. Most have manual ramps at the second door, and are very frequent.
To help us plan the routes, we used the Atac Roma website. The “calculate route” page has an “accessible-path” checkbox, but use it only for metro/train journeys – most buses are accessible even if the app doesn’t specifically say so.
Bus tickets cost €1.50 and are valid for 100 minutes from the first activation. You must validate your ticket as soon as you get on. Buying tickets directly on the bus isn’t possible; you can purchase them at Tabacchi shops, Metro stations, or via the MyCicero app.
There are various types of public transport tickets, depending on your needs. The single-use bus ticket previously mentioned can be used for a single metro ride and unlimited bus and tram rides as long as the total journey doesn’t exceed 100 minutes from validation. There are also 24h tickets for 7€, and 72h tickets or one-week tourist tickets for 16.5€ and 24€.
The Rome metro isn’t very convenient for wheelchair users. Line A has only a handful of accessible stations, and line B, while accessible, isn’t very helpful in reaching tourist sights. After getting stuck underground in Paris (the elevator was under maintenance), we opted for the safer, above-ground option and didn’t use the metro.
Contact Atac Roma (contact info here) for more accurate and real-time accessibility information.
The Hop-On Hop-Off buses are free-of-charge for wheelchair users (not for companions) and stop next to all main tourist spots.
General Accessibility in Rome
All I can say is be prepared for anything; it’s very random. The main streets of Rome usually have smooth sidewalks and dropped curbs, but the stores are still mostly inaccessible. The smaller streets, while charming, are cobblestoned, with very narrow or non-existent sidewalks. Parking while blocking the dropped curbs is common practice in Rome, so be prepared to roll on the road (I did 50% of the time). If you need a wheelchair-accessible restroom, the best chance to find one is at big hotels or museums. Most restaurants and cafes, especially the old ones, have a step, so an outside area was often our only option. The view was usually a plus, the cigarette smoke a minus.
While shopping on “via de Corso,” we learned that the bigger stores, such as “Zara” and “Sephora,” have a portable ramp if you ask a staff member, but many don’t. At “Mango,” we were told they had never encountered a situation where a wheelchair user asked for a ramp, so they didn’t have one. Ok!?
After finding myself waiting outside the store one too many times, we gave up on shopping altogether. I believe a shopping mall would be a much better option for me, but we didn’t have time.
Hotel recommendation
We stayed at a 4-star Best Western Premier Hotel Royal Santina, in a wheelchair-accessible room 411. The hotel is a 3min walk from Rome Termini Station (train, metro, bus), but far from the ancient center of Rome (which made it more affordable).
The room was spacious for a European standard, but the bathroom’s design was a bit challenging in a wheelchair. As you can see in the pictures, it’s equipped with grab bars, a roll-in shower with a shower bench (which can be replaced with a plastic chair upon request), a roll-under sink, and emergency cords. The bed allows the use of a hoist if needed.
The breakfast area was very spacious, and the staff extremely accommodating and friendly.
The only negatives from my experience were a small but steep ramp at the entrance and a strong smell of cleaning substances in the room.
Rome's sightseeing
At Rome’s museums/historical sites, a wheelchair user + one companion are admitted for free without waiting in line. Go straight to the entrance, find a staff member, and you’ll get VIP treatment. Use the wheelchair-accessible restrooms on-site; you don’t know when you’ll find another!
Colosseum
Cobblestones surround the Colosseum, lots of shaking getting there. You’ll need to “buy” your free tickets at the ticket booth and present them at the entrance. Don’t wait in line; they’ll let you right in. After clearing security, follow the “disable route” signs. You’ll be able to visit the entire second level (via elevator) and a small part of the first. Rolling around certain theater parts isn’t very smooth, but understandable and manageable.
Easiness to visit in a wheelchair 3/5 (the cobblestones getting there and some difficulty rolling inside)
St. Peter’s Square and Basilica
The square is covered with cobblestones, and so are most of the streets leading to it. To enter the basilica, we approached a guard who escorted us around the long line to the entrance. The accessible entrance is on the right side, where you’ll find an elevator to the main floor and an accessible restroom. Once on the main floor, there’s a ramp into the basilica. While non-disabled visitors can pay 10€ to visit the basilica’s dome, wheelchair users (or people with mobility difficulty) and one companion can only go as far as the roof for free. Still, it allows you to see the impressive dome and the roof sculptures. If you wish to do so, go to the first door on the left inside the basilica (if you are facing the altar), where you’ll find an elevator to the roof.
Easiness to visit in a wheelchair 4/5 (the cobblestones getting there)
The Vatican Museums
If you don’t like crowds like me and are visiting Rome between April and October, try to plan your visit to the Vatican Museums on Friday or Saturday. The Museums are open until 10:30 pm, and if you come in the afternoon, you’ll enjoy rolling around freely without worrying about running over people’s toes every second.
You’ll have to “buy” your free tickets (the disabled person and one companion) at the ticket booth and present them at the entrance upstairs.
The Museums are enormous and confusing, but the staff are very helpful and will happily point you toward the accessible route.
To visit the Sistine Chapel, you’ll have to roll in the opposite direction of the crowds for a while (the only accessible route) to a small stair lift. After, the guards stop the masses to allow you to roll uninterrupted through a narrow corridor leading to the chapel. While inside the chapel, a guard asked people to move and ensured I had a good spot next to the altar. Pictures and photos aren’t allowed inside.
You can get an audio guide for free without waiting in line on the second floor at the entrance to the Museums.
Easiness to visit in a wheelchair 5/5
The Jewish Museum, Synagogue – “Tempio Maggiore,” and Jewish Ghetto quarter
The Synagogue and the Jewish Museum are at the heart of the Jewish Ghetto quarter, next to the Tiber river. The Jewish Ghetto dates back to the 16th century and isn’t easy to explore in a wheelchair because of its broken cobblestones and uneven ground. The quarter is one of the capital’s hidden treasures, a small neighborhood rich in archaeological, religious, and cultural heritage and culinary specialties that have significantly inspired traditional Roman cuisine.
The Synagogue was built in 1904 and still serves as an active temple to the Jewish community of Rome. When rolling around the narrow alleys of the Jewish Ghetto, you’ll encounter golden cobblestones at building entrances. Engraved are the names, and birth/execution dates, of those who were captured, sent to Auschwitz, and killed in 1943 by the Nazis.
Visiting the Synagogue and the Jewish Museum is free of charge for wheelchair users and one companion. The museum is small, 2 hours are plenty to see both. The Synagogue is accessible via a ramp, and the museum via a small elevator (which got stuck with me in it). Sadly, the wheelchair-accessible restroom at the museum is used as storage, making it very challenging for the disabled who need the extra space.
Right across from the Synagogue is the Portico d’Ottavia monument. While walking/rolling through the ruins isn’t possible in a wheelchair, you can get a good view from Via del Portico d’Ottavia, the quarter’s main street. You’ll find many busy restaurants serving Judeo-Roman and kosher cuisine on the same street. I recommend trying some of the specialties and enjoying the lively atmosphere of the area.
Today, the Jewish Ghetto is considered one of the most prestigious neighborhoods in Rome.
Easiness to visit in a wheelchair – The Synagogue and Museum 4/5, the Jewish Quarter 2/5
The Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and Piazza Navona
The Pantheon is another wheelchair-accessible ancient monument and is considered the best-preserved monument from ancient Rome.
It’s located in the heart of ancient Rome, so a shaky ride on cobblestones is inevitable. Once there, find a staff member, and they’ll guide you through a ramped entrance without waiting in line.
For me, the Pantheon was the most awe-inspiring structure, and it’s worth a visit. Note: try to visit early in the morning or before closing time to avoid crowds.
Trevi Fountain is undoubtedly beautiful, but as a wheelchair user, it’s almost impossible to get close to it. We made the mistake of visiting on a Sunday evening with what felt like every tourist on Earth. It was overwhelming, loud, and stressful. Try to go early in the morning; you’ll get a much better view and atmosphere.
I loved Piazza Navona! Aside from cobblestones – fantastic atmosphere with street performers, beautiful art, and delicious food in the restaurants surrounding the piazza.
Porta Portese Market, Trastevere Quarter, and Tiber riverside walk
On Sundays, the Porta Portese flea market opens its hundreds and hundreds of stalls and offers everything from local leather goods and antiques to imported Chinese junk.
Don’t waste your time if you’re hoping to find gifts or souvenirs for your loved ones. The market is crowded, challenging to navigate in a wheelchair, and not worth the effort in my eyes.
After 30 minutes and two “leather” jackets for 15€, we had enough and headed towards the river for a peaceful Sunday walk. High walls surround the Tiber river on both sides because of floods, and only a few step-free bicycle routes lead down to the water. One is next to Ponte Sublicio, not far from the Porte Portese Market.
Another picturesque neighborhood of Rome that we loved is Trastevere (beyond the Tiber). This old, truly Italian neighborhood with its narrow alleyways and medieval houses is vivacious – with many souvenir shops, restaurants, trattorias, and pizzerias. While charming, the old cobblestones make rolling through the maze of its streets challenging.
Campo De Fiori Neighborhood and Market
Campo De Fiori (literally translated: field of flowers) is yet another adorable and full of charm part of old Rome. The square that houses a farmer’s market since 1869 (Monday to Saturday mornings) used to be a meadow full of flowers. Now, the market offers a variety of local produce, including flowers, fruits and vegetables, herbs, pasta, alcoholic beverages and wines, souvenirs, and more. In the evening, the area becomes one of the best meeting places in Rome thanks to its wide variety of restaurants, cocktail bars, and terraces.
Again, the cobblestones can make visiting a bit challenging, but it’s worth it if you can.
Rome Termini Station
Termini Station is a good option if you are looking for inexpensive, accessible shopping not far from Rome’s center (the big shopping malls are far from central Rome). The station also hosts Mercato Centrale, where you can taste some of Rome’s native dishes. I wouldn’t recommend going there purposely, but if you happen to be in the area, the market is worth a visit. We had a delicious, Naples-style pizza there.
Food in Rome
I am not a food expert, but I love to eat. Here are a couple of places we loved and would go back to:
Ai Tre Scalini – Bottiglieria since 1895. The food and the service were spectacular. The restaurant isn’t wheelchair-accessible, but there are a few tables outside. Make sure to make a reservation or come early; the restaurant gets very busy, with a long line outside. (No accessible restroom).
La Taverna dei Quaranta. Authentic Roman cuisine, fresh and delicious food, inexpensive, 10min walk from Colosseum. The indoor space is wheelchair-accessible, but the restroom is not. The staff doesn’t speak English.
Sant’ Eustachio Il Caffè. Some locals told us it was the best coffee in Rome, so we tried it while in the area. The coffee and pastries are excellent, but the service is terrible. Plus, you have to wait a long time for a table. Next time, coffee to go!
Gelateria Artigianale Corona Roma. Link to Instagram, no website). Best Gelato we had in Rome (and we had a lot!).
Roscioli Caffè Pasticceria. Best Maritozzi (Italian sweet cream buns).
Mercato Centrale – Marco Quintili‘s shop. Loved the Pizza!
Have you been to Rome? Share your accessibility impressions in the comments!