This trip was initially for business purposes, but I couldn’t fly all the way to Italy without exploring at least a little bit, could I?
We managed to see a bit of Milan, spent one day in Venice, explored Florence and San Gimignano, and visited a beautiful Tuscan Vineyard and farm. This time we traveled mostly by car with my Whill Ci wheelchair, which can be taken apart and easily fits in the boot.
Milan
If you fly into Malpensa airport, you can take the “Malpensa Express” to Milan Central Station. The price is 13€ and free for one companion, and the train is platform level with designated seats for disabled passengers. Another option is booking a wheelchair-accessible transfer in advance, which could be expensive. We booked a regular airport transfer with a boot big enough for my wheelchair and paid 90€, which is also the price of a taxi.
For the business part of the trip, we stayed at Radisson Blu Hotel Milan. The hotel isn’t in the city center but is wheelchair-accessible and overall very good. We moved to a centrally located hotel Best Western Hotel Madison Milano, for our last night in Milan.
Click here for pictures and accessibility reviews of the hotels from this trip.
Having only one afternoon to explore Milan, we took the metro yellow line to the famous Duomo Square.
We explored the area, visited the famous Milan Duomo (wow!), window-shopped at Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, had a delicious and very overpriced lunch, and just took in the city’s atmosphere.
The metro was mostly accessible, but make sure all the elevators work at your destination (the staff member checked for us before letting us in). Also, there’s a small gap between the train and the platform, + the train is a bit higher (as shown in the picture), making boarding a bit tricky. I’m still confused about the metro tickets. We purchased them but were never asked to present/validate them, the attendant just opened the automatic gates for us.
To find wheelchair-accessible routes and transportation, we used the Moovit app with an “accessible route” filter.
The Duomo is spectacular!
It took almost six centuries to complete, but truly one of the most beautiful structures I’ve ever seen, especially the roof statues and spires.
It’s free for wheelchair users and one companion (including visiting the roof). First, go to the ticket office (outside the cathedral, on the right) and get your free ticket. You will be asked to present it at the entrance and the elevator. The elevator is at the farthest right corner inside the cathedral. As a wheelchair user, you won’t have to wait in any lines.
I wanted to see the “Over the Threshold” exhibition by Leonardo Elrich at Palazzo Reale, but we didn’t have time. From my research, Palazzo Reale is wheelchair-accessible and holds some cool and exciting exhibits.
Milan was great, but we only saw a tiny part of it. Well, no other choice but to come back!
Restaurant recommendation L’Immagine Restaurant Bistro.
It’s not centrally located, but if you happen to be in the area, a must-visit!
The food is fantastic; the staff is too! Cozy, delicious, welcoming, and step-free. As in many old Italian restaurants, you might need to show some maneuvering skills if you’re a wheelchair user and ask some patrons to let you pass, but it’s worth it! No wheelchair-accessible restroom.
Venice
Next stop on our road trip was Venice.
Venice holds many memories for me. I’ve been there several times before when my legs worked. To me, the magic of Venice was wandering purposelessly, getting lost in the endless maze of alleys and canals, stomping upon another small church, bridge, or hidden restaurant.
As a wheelchair user, the experience is different; planned. Most bridges aren’t accessible, and the only way to move between various city areas is by boat. The options are Vaporetto (waterbus) or wheelchair-accessible water taxis.
Vaporetto
Lines 1 and 2 are fully accessible and reach most areas along the grand canal. Wheelchair users ride for free, one companion for a reduced price of 1.5 €(the regular price is 9.5 €). I recommend purchasing several companion tickets in advance so you won’t have to look for a ticket office (not every Vaporetto stop has one). You have to validate your ticket at the Vaporetto stop entrance, and the ticket is valid 75min from the validation.
The Vaporetto stops are on the water, to enter, there’s a ramp that can be wobbly and steep at high tide. Getting onto the boats is pretty easy. When the boat was peer level, I did it without a ramp (left photo), but there is a portable ramp at every stop; don’t hesitate to ask for it.
For accessibility on other Vaporetto lines, check here. From my research, lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, and 6 are more challenging to board since they are smaller and often overloaded, but they are also accessible.
Water Taxis
I haven’t used one, but have seen other wheelchair travelers using them. From my research, they need to be booked in advance, usually through an accessible travel agency, and are very pricey.
Getting there
By car – if you are driving in, the easiest and cheapest parking option is Tronchetto. From there, you can continue by Vaporetto line 2 (if it goes to your desired destination) or take the People Mover (a cable car) that will take you to Piazzale Roma in 5 min and for 1.5€. From Piazzale Roma, you can continue by many different Vaporetto lines. There are parking garages also in the Piazzale Rome area, but they are more expensive and often full; reserve in advance.
By train – you will arrive at Venezia Santa Lucia Railway Station. Right outside, the Ferrovia Vaporetto stop, where you can catch the Vaporetto lines 1 and 2 to your destination.
By bus/tram – airport or other buses and trams stop at Piazzale Roma.
We decided to stay in Mestre, a mainland town about 15 minutes from Venice. Why? One, because we didn’t want to figure out Venice accessibility while carrying our luggage with us. Two, because the hotels and parking in Mestre are significantly cheaper. Three, because you can get to Venice in 15 min by bus, tram, or train – all wheelchair-accessible. We took the bus for 1.5€ (each way) and it was easy, accessible, and fast.
For an accessibility review of our Mestre hotel, click here.
Accessible routes
I recommend picking a couple of main areas you want to explore and moving between them by Vaporetto. For example, we chose the Rialto Mercato area (Rialto Mercado Vapotetto stop), where we enjoyed the market commotion, saw the famous Rialto bridge, tasted some yummy chiccetti, and shopped. The market is open Mon-Sat 7:30 am -3 pm (fish market until 12 pm).
To help me plan, I used the Venezia Unica website, where they have some suggestions for barrier-free routes and activities; here’s the link. (the website is in Italian only).
Then we took the Vaporetto to St. Marco Vallaresso stop, visited Piazza San Marco and Basilica (accessible entrance via Porta dei Fiori ), and walked along the Grand Canal from St. Marco Square to Via. Garibaldi (all the bridges there are ramped). The area is lively, full of shops, souvenir stands, and restaurants.
Throughout Venice, we saw several public restrooms, all wheelchair accessible. The fee to use one is 1.5€, free for the disabled.
Before booking activities, triple-check that they are wheelchair-accessible and suitable for you specifically. I found a catamaran cruise company that advertised their cruises to be wheelchair-accessible. Having some doubts, I didn’t book in advance but rolled to the departure point to talk to the crew. If you consider being carried on/off the boat wheelchairs accessible by three handsome Italian men, then it was, but I know many wouldn’t feel comfortable or safe; and for the heavy power wheelchair users, it wouldn’t be possible at all. For those who would consider such activity, the company is Venezia Catamaran Cruises and the sunset cruise we took was the perfect ending to our time in Venice!
Florence
Florence was our Tuscany base point on this trip. Most come to Florence for the art, but we didn’t visit museums or galleries this time. Instead, we wandered the old, narrow streets, indulged in delicious Tuscan food and wine, and explored the Tuscan countryside.
For an accessibility review of our Florence hotel, click here.
Magnificent!
The evening we arrived, we spent an hour circling the Duomo complex and admiring its massive size, beauty, and unique exterior details. We returned another day to visit the cathedral, which was even more beautiful in the daylight. The wheelchair-accessible entrance is on the right side (not the same entrance where other visitors wait in a long line). The Dome isn’t accessible.
Head to the Arno River at sunset if you can and watch the changing with every passing minute colors; so beautiful! Next to Alla Carraia bridge, stop for Gelato at the famous Gelateria la Carraia. The line is long but moves fast. There’s a step to enter.
General Accessibility
Most streets are bumpy and narrow with very narrow and often blocked sidewalks; be ready to roll on the road. Although lowered curbs are everywhere, parked cars often block them.
Many buildings in the Historical Center of Florence aren’t accessible, which means many shops and restaurants have a step or two, and the restrooms are usually in the basement. If you’re planning to eat at a specific restaurant, call/email and ask about accessibility in advance.
The Central Market’s top floor was converted into a food court (accessible by elevator) where you can taste various local foods and beverages and purchase souvenirs.
Piazzale Michelangelo, designed by the architect Giuseppe Pogg, is one of the best viewpoints in Florence. Although it’s only a 20 min walk from the city center, it’s mostly uphill and with many steps. If you’re not traveling by car, several bus lines reach Piazzale Michelangelo and are wheelchair-accessible. Other than the panoramic terrace that offers a beautiful view of the city, the square holds a replica of Michelangelo’s David and the famous for its views La Loggia restaurant.
As for food, there are countless excellent restaurants in Florence, although many aren’t wheelchair-accessible.
The two that we loved the most were Osteria Pastella which serves delicious freshly made (right in front of the patrons) pasta dishes and other local delicacies. The entrance is step-free, but the restaurant is very popular, and you’ll see a long line forming before the opening time, so make a reservation (there’s a wheelchair-accessible table checkbox)!
Another favorite was Trattoria ZaZa, with its authentic Tuscan dishes and impeccable service. The restaurant is located next to the central market, has a step-free entrance, and an accessible outside area. The restroom is downstairs.
San Gimignano
San Gimignano, also known as the Town of Fine Towers, a small village surrounded by tall walls, is about 45 minutes from Florence. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1900 and is famous for its fascinating medieval architecture and towers. About a dozen of its tower houses are preserved (originally 72), and being located on a hilltop, the village presents a beautiful and unique skyline.
Rolling through the narrow streets of San Gimignano felt like stepping back in time, into a different era. The village is tiny, and filled with tourists from around the globe, but there are small side alleys where you can hide from the crowds. The area is famous for saffron, Vernaccia wine, Santa Fina ceramics, and excellent Tuscan cuisine.
As far as accessibility, it was surprisingly good for a medieval town. We parked at P3 (on google maps) and took an elevator up the hill and to the village walls. From there, most streets and alleys were pretty smooth, but you’ll see some side alleys with very steep inclines. The main street is a bit bumpy and hilly, but doable. Most shops have a step to enter and are quite small and narrow and most restaurants have an outside sitting area.
Stop for some Gelato at Dondori Gelateria, it’s located in the central Piazza della Cisterna and is excellent! (there’s a step to enter).
Fattoria Poggio Alloro is a family-owned farm, winery, and agriturismo (a Tuscan farmhouse-hotel), about 10 min from San Gimignano.
Finding a farm or a small winery that could accommodate wheelchair users wasn’t easy, and this one was the closest to wheelchair-accessible I could find. The farm is gorgeous, the tour guide is very knowledgeable and engaging, the food and wine are delicious, and the staff immediately makes you feel at home.
Starting with the most important, they have a wheelchair-accessible restroom, so you don’t have to monitor your wine intake.
The wine cellar and the cattle barn (they breed their cattle and other animals) are down a steep gravel road, so if you’re a manual wheelchair user, bring help.
There’s a small step to the wine-tasting area, which I could do in my Whill Ci wheelchair; I only needed someone to tilt me a little. Manual/lightweight wheelchair users won’t have a problem, but for power wheelchair users, a portable ramp might be a good idea (in Italy, in general).
The store/office has steps.
I just wanted to stay there all day, sipping wine, listening to the birds, and enjoying all the beauty. Highly recommended!
Besides wine tasting, they also offer lunch and dinner options (farm-to-table) with self-grown veggies and fruits, meat, homemade pasta from self-grown grains, and more. I wish we had more time!
I haven’t asked about their farmhouse hotel accessibility.
That’s it for this trip, hope my experiences will help some of you in your future travels!